France, ca. 1940. Handmade folio, 13 x 10 inches, stiff paper with blanket-stitched edges housing 4 paper patterns, 4 garment models, and a pink ribbon bow. The blue square panel has a few small holes and the muslin linings have scattered foxing. The folder is beginning to tear along the upper seam. Very Good condition overall.

The work of Philomène Rodier, each model is done in wool and has a small tissue label with her name and class stitched to each piece: two blue pockets, a red square with model buttonholes, pocket, and curved slit, and the main model of a jacket with collar and lapels, cut from the four enclosed paper patterns. One side of the piece is finished; the other side is left unfinished to expose the extra basting and accordion stitches that give structure to the collar and lapels. The jacket piece is full of wonderful detail and surprises--finished buttonholes and pockets (one functional) and endless lengths of seams, each with their proper technique, leaving a strong sense of the seamstress' hand in the garment's unfinished state. Very meticulous and structurally delectable work.